Display Stands & Winter Shelter

Display Stands:
Keeping your collection of bonsai trees on a stand makes them easier to work with and to see, and gives protection from extremes of weather. The large designon the leftis simple to build from wood, having a shade of timber battens and a slatted bench-top.
There is a shelf for miniature bonsai at the back and a tool drawer under the bench. In severe weather, the trees can be placed under the bench and enclosed with heavy-gauge clear plastic sheeting (shown rolled).
The smaller example is based on a stand illustrated in an early Japanese bonsai book, and uses bamboo for shading.

Building A Display Stand:
The number of trees in your bonsai collection will determine the size of the stand. When calculating the dimensions, be sure to allow each tree plenty of space, and remember that small as they are, they do grow.
To allow for easier working, the stand should be made a little higher than an indoor table. It should be made of good quality wood, treated with a preservative, or it could have a metal frame with a wooden top. The trees can be placed on a gravel bed, as this cuts down on the need to water; but in this case they should be lifted every now and then to make sure the roots are not growing into the gravel.

Above the stand, around the sides and at the back, a weather-shade of thin timber laths or canes should be made. Each strip should be secured an inch apart. This will help protect the trees from all extremes: hot sunlight, heavy rain, high winds, and even a certain amount of frost.
For harder winter conditions the bottom of the stand can be enclosed and the trees placed inside.


Winter Care
Container plantings of any kind are more subject to damage from cold than plants growing in the
ground. Containers just don't hold enough soil to insulate plant roots.
Where winter temperatures are frost free or relatively mild (above 20F or -7C) you can leave a
bonsai outside if its normal display area is protected from wind. Spreading straw or mulch around the pots also helps insulate the soil.
An unheated greenhouse is ideal as a winter shelter since the plants receive good light, are somewhat protected from the cold, and with a door ajar or vents opened slightly, get plenty of air.
You can devise a polyethylene plastic and wood greenhouse by extending a lean-to from under house eaves. Leave all or part of one end open, unless winters are severe.

Building A Cold Frame:
With just a bit more effort you can build a simple cold frame - essentially a low greenhouse with a translucent hinged top. Placed against a south-facing wall and recessed into the ground it will
keep plants dormant but not frozen (unless you live in the colder regions of Canada, for example).
Dig a rectangle about 6 -8 inches deep beside the wall. Using scrap lumber or plywood, build a
frame with sides the slope down toward the front; a 6 inch slope is sufficient. Make sure the front is high enough (about 18 inches) to accommodate your shortest bonsai. Then set the frame
againt the wall and spread 3 - 4 inches of gravel in the bottom.
Traditionally, old window sashes formed the tops of cold frames, but you can also use clear plastic, fiberglass, or polyethylene plastic sheeting. In snowy areas, first cover the fame with fine
mesh chicken wire or hardware cloth.
Place the bonsai on the gravel base and surround and cover the pots lightly with straw. Close the
lid for protection from extreme cold, opening it slightly for ventilation when the temperature is
above freezing.



Winter Watering:
During freezing weather, water your bonsai (if they need it) in the morning. This allows excess
water to drain out before the temperature drops. Water-soaked soil expands as it freezes, which can cause containers to crack.